Finishing Ethnic Hair Paste

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Deionized water
62.30

Dissolvine GL-47-S (Coast Southwest, Akzo Nobel Functional Chemicals) (Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate)
0.50

Glycerin (Coast Southwest)
2.00

DL-Panthenol 50% (Coast Southwest) (Panthenol)
0.10

Phase B

Olivatis 19 (Coast Southwest, Medolla Limited) (Olive oil polyglyceryl-6 esters (and) phospholipids)
4.00

Olivatis 18 (Coast Southwest, Medolla Limited)(Olive oil polyglyceryl-6 esters (and) sodium stearyl lactylate (and) cetearyl alcohol)
6.00

Cosmodan 20 (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Elaeis guineensis (palm) oil (and) brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil)
6.00

Coconut Olein (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil)
1.00

Allanblackia Butter (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Allanblackia stuhlmannii seed butter)
4.00

Cosmosil-I Illipe Butter (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Shorea stenoptera seed butter)
1.00

Cosmosit B (Coast Southwest, International Cosmetic Science Centre) (Brassica campestris seed oil (and) oryza sativa bran oil)
0.50

Glossamer L6600 (Coast Southwest) (Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer)
5.00

Phase C

Beeswax
3.00

Ultrapure TEWL L (Coast Southwest, Ultra Chemicals) (Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil (and) lauric acid (and) hydrogenated castor oil (and) beeswax (and) calcium stearate (and) rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract)
3.00

Phase D

Sharomix 703 (Coast Southwest, Sharon Laboratories) (Potassium sorbate (and) sodium benzoate (and) benzyl alcohol (and) aqua)
0.80

Phase E

Olivatis 15 (Coast Southwest, Inc., Medolla Limited) (Olive oil glycereth-8 esters)
0.80

Phase F

Fragrance
q.s.

Procedure

Phase A–Combine Phase A ingredients in formula order into main vessel with propeller mixing and begin heating to 70°C to 75°C. Phase B–In a separate vessel, add the first Phase B ingredient under propeller mixing and begin heating to 70°C-75°C. At desired temperature, add the remaining Phase B ingredients in formula order into the vessel with continuous mixing. Once uniform, add Phase B to Phase A under propeller mixing with increased speed at 500-600 rpm. Phase C – Add Phase C to Phase AB with continuous mixing. Once fully uniform let it mix for 3-5 minutes, then discontinue heat. Phase D – Once temperature of batch ABC is 40°C-45°C, add Phase D to Phase ABC. Phase E – Combine Phase E ingredients and add to Phase ABCD. Mix until fully uniform. Once uniform, transfer to holding vessel.